Archive for September 2010
Adventures in Alexandria: The Fort of Qaytbay
The Fort of Qaytbay
قلعة قيتباي
Taking a weekend away from the Academy and Cairo, we (student and teachers) were adamant to make the most out of our time. So our next destination was another adventure, and a very scenic one indeed.
We headed to the Fort of Qaytbay located in the Eastern Harbor. We got down from the taxis and walked along a long pedestrian passage along the sea. The citadel stood very majestically at the end of it keeping an eye on the Mediterranean in a true military fashion.
What was most beautiful was the very atmospheric and scenic views all along. The Alexandrian sea is known for its high waves and all along the passage, as we walked to the fort, big waves collided against the rocks splashing everyone not far enough from the water. We meandered through the souvenirs stands until we finally reached the fort itself.
The fort was built in the 15th century on/ from the shards of the ancient light house (pharos) of Alexandria. It served as a strong defensive post on the coast of Egypt and continued to function during most of the Mamluk, Ottoman and Modern periods, but after the British bombardment of the city of Alexandria in 1883, it was kept out of the spotlight.
Recently restored, its white rocks contrasted sharply with the turquoise blue of the Mediterranean. The interior of the fort is empty, but its many staircases, passages and vaulted ceilings were fun to explore. Most beautiful were its huge terraces on the different levels overlooking the sea and the high walls with arrow slits where one can only peep to catch a glimpse of the sea.
Apparently these terraces are popular places for couples too. We walked up and down what seemed like lover’s lane, then we decided to go for our next adventure that we unanimously agreed that it should include food…we were getting hungry and headed to the nearest fish restaurant for some of that famous Alexandrian sea food.
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Adventures in Alexandria: Kom el Shoqafa
Kom el Shokafa
كوم الشوقافه
Egypt is a great place to learn Arabic. And besides learning Arabic, Egypt is also a great place for adventures. So in a true Arab Academy spirit teachers and students decided to take off to Alexandria in search of one.
Alexandria is a beautiful city It’s the second largest one after Cairo and contains a wealth of history, culture and food. We embarked on our first adventure and headed to the catacombs in Kom el Shokafa or ‘The Mound of Shards’. Considered as one of the wonders of the middle ages, this under ground necropolis was rediscovered in 1900 when a donkey accidentally fell into a shaft. Armed with flash lights, we descended into an amazing underground maze of arches and rooms. Feeling more and more like Indiana Jones in one of his adventures, we were pointing our flash lights from one wall to the other and from one dark corner to the next .
It was amazing how the ancients buried their dead. In one of the hallways there were 91 niches in the walls, each providing a burial space for three mummies. In one of the walls there was a breach that leads to what is called the Hall of Caracalla, where it is said that in 215 AD the emperor Caracalla murdered some Alexandrian youths.
What was most fascinating, however, was the overall thought that went into all this building: in a true ancient Egyptian manner, there was so much life in death in a manner combining Egyptian theology with a Roman twist. although we were well armed with our flash lights, by the time we went up and down the different levels, we were all soaked. Nothing had armed us for the severe humidity.
We started to climb up again and surely by the time we went out of the catacombs, we were glad to see the sun light and feel the fresh air on our faces. It was time for the next adventure…..and Alex seemed to have so many of them.
King Tut
Tut Ankh Amun
توت عنخ امون
“We bumped our heads, nipped our fingers, we had to squeeze in and out like weasels, and work in all kinds of embarrassing positions” Howard Carter on excavating the tomb of Tut Ankh Amun
King Tut is about the most famous king of Egypt. Since Arab Academy hosts so many international students, a trip was arranged to the Egyptian museum to see the king’s collection. We were all looking forward to the trip, especially that the Tut Ankh Amun collection was one of the most beautiful and well displayed ones in the museum.
The museum was not hard to reach as it is right in the heart of Cairo in Tahrir square. Once in the museum, we stopped along many objects along the way to the first floor where the collection is located. It wasn’t hard to find as it was the most crowded area.
Leading to the rooms displaying the fine golden jewelry, are the big gold artifacts such as the beautiful gilded shrines and beds. The carving on the artifacts seemed beautiful and everyone was amazed that everything was in such excellent condition.
What was most interesting, however, were the big black and white pictures all along the walls showing Howard Carter and the original tomb in the valley of the king. It was like having a black and white silent film playing along a very colorful and shinny one.
It is no wonder that Tut Ankh Amun is the best known king of Egypt, as his tomb was the most complete one to be found from ancient times. He ruled during the 18th dynasty and although his reign was quite short, it held significant effects. King Tut was the successor of his father Akhenaton, who worshipped the Aten and established the capital at el Amarna. Tut Ankh Amun’s name was originally Tut ‘ankh Aten, or the living image of Aten. However, with the death of his father, Thebes was re-established as the official capital of Egypt and Amun the official God.
The collection was all amazing especially all the gold jewelry and the Golden flies. Most of all the famous mask of the king was amazingly carved and inlaid. As we finished looking at the collections, we found ourselves heading towards another very interesting collection of mummies. But that’s another story…..
Saqqara
Saqqara Pyramid
هرم سقاره
Visiting the pyramids of Egypt is one of the site seeing activities most looked forward to by Arab Academy students. The step pyramid of Saqqara is one of the places that shouldn’t be missed. Wearing comfortable shoes and packing a bottle of water we headed to Saqqra to see the step pyramid and the tombs surrounding it.
The road to Saqqra is very beautiful. The road was paved all the way and as we left the hustle and bustle of Cairo, more scenic views started appearing from the microbus windows. We were headed South of Cairo right in the middle of the Egyptian country side. There were some houses scattered here and there but we mainly drove along a canal and along each side of the road we saw palm trees and stretched green fields up till the edge of the desert.
The microbus took a right turn and we headed straight into the desert. Right in front of us stood the step pyramid overlooking all the green fields below it. The contrast of colors was very beautiful of the bright yellow desert right next to the bright green fields .
Guiding the students through the site, they were fascinated by the history of the place. Saqqara was a vast ancient burial ground in the Old Kingdom capital of Memphis. Although it features several pyramids, the most famous one is that of Djoser and it is usually referred to as the step pyramid because it is made of six steps known as mastabas. It was built by the famous architect Imhotep.
The tombs surrounding the pyramid were also very beautiful and some very well perserved. I found that the most mysterious was the tomb to Unas, with all its walls covered with hieroglyphic text known as the ‘Book of the Dead’. The text included spells and incantations to help the king cross from one life to the other.
The tomb of Ti was also very beautiful. It’s amazing that the bright red brick color is so well preserved for so many thousands of years. The most amazing aspect of the tomb are all the everyday scenes of fishing.
By the time we finished looking around, it was time to go. The sun was very hot all of a sudden although we were still in the early morning and more noisy tourists started arriving. It was an amazing contrast to how cool and quite the interior of the tombs were.
Ramadan Diaries: Leilat el Qadr
The Last Ten Days of Ramadan and Leilat el Qadr
العشر الاواخر و ليلة القدر
‘We have indeed revealed this (Message) in the Night of measures:
And what will explain to thee what the night of power is?
The Night of Power is better than a thousand months.
Therein come down the angels with Allah’s permission, on every errand:
Peace it is until the rise of dawn!’ holy quran 30:97
Ramadan has come and is almost gone before we know it. The last ten days are the most exhausting. Prayer rituals, especially night prayers are emphasized and the neighboring mosque was alive all night. Following the tradition of the prophet PBUH, some men retire to the mosque in the last ten days in complete seclusion to worship. That’s because there’s a great blessing during those last ten days: Leilat al Qadr ( or in translation The Night of Decree or Measures).
In the Quran, it is referred to as a night that is better than one thousand months (almost 80 years). It is the night when the Angel Gabriel, PBUH, appeared to the prophet and revealed the quran. Angels come down from heaven with the permission of Allah and it is peaceful until dawn. This night is usually celebrated on the night of the 27th of Ramadan, however, there are some people who believe that it is also on any odd day during the last ten days of the month ( the 21rst, 23rd, 25 etc….)
Not surprising, during those last ten days, all prayer shifts double. The usual taraweeh prayers are performed but mosques are not emptied after they are done. Another set of prayers starts after 12 am known as salat el Tahajod (or tahajod prayers). The night time during those last ten days become a night of communal prayers, quran reading and worship until after the dawn prayers. It is a chance for forgiveness, spiritual ascendance and to ask Allah for all one’s heart desires in this world and the next. Not many like to miss it.
With such exhaustion from the night before, day time is a mellower time at work and home. After Iftar it all starts again. However, towards the end of the last ten days, a new spirit takes over. Everyone is looking forward to Eid el Fitr, when fasting ends and people can consume their usual food and drink. A spirit of celebration takes over after this intense period of worship- one that is just as sweet and lively as the month that preceded it.
Eid el Fitr
Eid al Fitr
عيد الفطر
With the termination of Ramadan, there’s nothing to look forward to more than the upcoming Eid holidays. Actually, they are not just holidays. Eid al Fitr is a kind of festivity. It marks the end of the fasting period and the ‘purification’ that took place during a whole month of fasting. It’s a festivity that unites the entire Muslim world in time and ritual.
Traditionally, Muslims wake up early in the first day of the month of Shawwal (the month after Ramadan), eat or drink as a sign of not fasting and head to the community mosque for salat el Eid or the Eid prayers. Usually streets are blocked because the number of people going to pray by far exceeds the interior space of the mosque and people pray outside. It’s a time of warmth and friendliness in the community. Greetings are exchanged and well wishes are made.
In Egypt, Eid for children is especially fun too. Buying colorful and fancy new clothes for small children (and grown ups) is one of the most popular traditions. Another popular tradition is to give out new bills of money, called Edeya, to little children so they can buy candy.
As in all middle eastern traditions, there’s isn’t an occasion with out its special dish. In Eid, kahk is the special dish. It’s a kind of biscuit done with flour and gee and stuffed (or not) with nuts or all kinds of things then covered with powdered sugar. It’s a popular tradition in many homes to make kahk before the Eid but many buy the ready made ones today. During visitations between people in the community, kahk is the most popular dish served- and after the long month of fasting, it is usually savored with a cup of tea or a kind of hot drink-yummy.
